I recently visited Per Se restaurant in Manhattan. It’s the sister restaurant of the French Laundry in California. I should begin by saying four years ago when I visited the French Laundry was the single most memorable dinging experience of my life. Not only was it the best meal I had had up to that point (it still holds that title) but I had become aware of Thomas Keller the head chef prior to then, and had his cookbook with me when I went to visit. I asked if I could get it autographed, and when I went down to the kitchen, he invited me to hang out for a bit and sit in on the menu planning for the following evening.

 All of these things combined led to an experience that I can hardly put into words. Needless to say I have been looking forward to the opportunity to re-experience the cooking of Thomas Keller. This leads me to my night at Per Se last week. It was a fantastic meal—undeniably world class cuisine. Why then, was I unhappy with it? I think I may have built up the night too much in my head, and my expectations were too high. Perhaps it was because the meal was not actually cooked by Keller himself, but another chef who is cooking his recipes. It may have been little things, like a bad night, or the fact that the foie gras offereing was a terrine, which I know is supposed to be the ultimate way to enjoy foie, but I far prefer it pan seared and warm.

This meal was superb, but it did not rank among my best ever. I would break down what is in the pictures, but there are too many to get into, even with the four or five courses that I forgot to photograph.

 

 

 

 

June 22nd, 2008 by John (Cho-Tabetai)